Category Archives: cook

Feeding you until you’re full.

Non-gluten persimmon cake

This is it. Pair with Hennessey.

20111220-200257.jpg

Chez Panisse – Garde Manger – Day 1

This is a brief account of my first day as Garde Manger at Chez Panisse.  The shift is supposed to be 6 AM to 2 PM.  I worked 5:40 AM to 2:15 PM.  It was a Wednesday, meaning it’s supposed to be a little more easy than the other days but there is a lot of prepared food to inventory regardless.

  • Arrive at 5:45 am
  • Get an inventory sheet and mark stuff for downstairs
  • Inventoried downstairs walk-ins, meat and vegetables
  • Inventoried outside walk-in
  • Inventoried prep food walk-in, which was packed with unlabeled stuff I had trouble identifying.  It took me half an hour at least to get through it.
  • Took out duck fat
  • Met with Chef and went over to do items
  • Explain list to interns
  • Change into whites
  • organize all the walk-ins
  • Squeeze tomates and set softies to roast
  • Set up for 9 o’clock meeting, put out some shell beans
  • More inventory for ordering – dairy
  • Go to storage next door to look for medium hotel pans
  • Go to a different storage next door and finish ordering inventory and getting restock stuff
  • Restock oils and dry goods like flour and sugar
  • Go back and get more stuff from storage that I forgot
  • Place orders
  • Meeting @ 9 am
  • Go over staff lunch with Chef: 20 meatballs, cucumbers, what I thought was yogurt but was actually onion rings in buttermilk, couscous, butternut squash ravioli, lentils, potatoes, cauliflower, aioli
  • Put away orders
  • Put fish away, which means set up an ice tray for each kind of fish, separate for upstairs and downstairs and then label and cover each type
  • Bring stuff to the office for them to do: shell beans
  • Put stuff away for downstairs to use according to their list
  • Make staff lunch starting @ 11 to serve @ noon
  • clean up station
  • eat
  • clean all the walk-ins and reorganize
  • clean up lunch
  • Inventory and restock from storage
  • Meet with downstairs chef about their list
  • Top fennel and beets
  • clean up
  • clock out at 2:15

And I’m spent.

chicken al matone with tomatillo salsa and succotash, three bean salad and fried okra

Braised lamb

Break fast feast

20111016-112812.jpg

20111016-112826.jpg

20111016-112840.jpg

20111016-112901.jpg

Pre-Pancetta

20111016-112335.jpg

Tortellini in Brodo

Lamb, nettle and ricotta tortellini, clarified lamb broth.

20111016-112559.jpg

20111016-112610.jpg

20111016-112627.jpg

20111016-112641.jpg

20111016-112654.jpg

Hands In

20111016-113031.jpg

suppli

My favorite Roman snack and leftover risotto usage: suppli.

Take your cold risotto, make a flat rectangle of rice in your hand, put a chunk of sausage, meat and/or cheese inside and roll the rice around the filling. Flour, egg, breadcrumb your rolls and then fry them at around 180 C or a bit lower if the filling is raw.  EAT.

Abbacchio Brodettato

The other night we made a little Abbacchio Brodettato, a stovetop quick braised lamb leg with an egg based sauce.

You will need:

  • a leg of lamb in pieces or sliced into thick piece you can cut into smaller pieces
  • oil, salt, pepper
  • white wine, about a cup
  • garlic cloves 4-6
  • white onion, small diced
  • rosemary
  • thinly sliced prosciutto
For the Brodettato, mix the following:
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1/3 cup peccorino grated
  • a handful of finely chopped parsley
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1/2 tablespoon flour
Here’s how you do it:
  • Get a lamb leg, cut it into pieces about 2 inches square and season the pieces with salt and pepper.
  • Brown the lamb in olive oil on all sides in a heavy, high sided skillet.  And really brown them.
  • Remove them when they’re GOOD and brown and then sweat some diced onions in the lamb fat and then some garlic, whole cloves are fine
  • Deglaze with a bit of white wine
  • Add the lamb back in, put in some rosemary and thyme and marjoram still on the stems
  • Add some hot water, lay prosciutto slices over as much of the lamb as you can
  • cover the pot and let the lamb cook slowly, at a simmer
  • When the lamb is tender, temper your brodettato mixture with some of the hot liquid in the skillet
  • Toss the lamb with the brodettato and serve it!

Dehydrated eggplant

Gonna use em as dipping chips for caponata.

20110902-074944.jpg