Category Archives: Roma

A Day at Giovanni Bernabei’s Farm

Giovanni Bernabei is kind of becoming an Italian farmer/celebrity.

He is the RSFP’s closest ally, an eccentric farmer with a simple and bold manifesto. In addition to farming, he is making a name for himself on Italy’s Rai Television News network as a special daily guest, discussing farming and growing Italy’s staple food items. I’ll get back to this.  His manifesto, which he sometimes hangs at his table at farmers markets and which hangs in the American Academy’s bar, is as follows:

Dear Consumer, All the produce displayed at my stall is made by the person who sells it.  The produce is ALL cultivated in the open, under the sun and frost, without any chemical products according tot he method of Organic agriculture, certified since 1995 by the Bioagricoop.

My name is Giovanni Bernabei.  Ever since 1983, I made a pact with myself to touch no longer with my hands any fodder, fertilizer or any chemical products whatsoever.  So long as I have the strength to raise a HOE, I will labor for those who believe in me and appreciate my produce.  Hippocrates “Let FOOD be your first medicine.”

An assortment of OFFICINAL greens among which: sorrel, yarrow, yellowrocket, borage, sow thistle, chicory, crepide, berberry, dandelion, hedge-mustard, wild fennel, hawkbit, mallow, sweet clover, josierola, plantain, dock, corn poppy seed, mustard.  Everything in season. PS Drink the water used for cooking.

The DECALOGUE of the good ORGANIC

  1. Organic food will never be beautiful like non-organic food.
  2. It might even be beautiful, but with hidden defects.
  3. It must never make one feel nauseous, have strange tastes, etc.
  4. It must have a “flavorless” flavor, be WHAT IT IS.
  5. It must not stink during cooking, but smell good.
  6. It must never fill you up or be difficult ot digest.
  7. If you have reflux, it is not good organic.
  8. It must have few nitrites, which are responsible for illnesses.
  9. It must have little water and be endowed with many vitamins.
  10. Good organic prodcuts never look exactly one like the other.
  11. PS Procure if you can, an organic agricultural diet from a producer, insuring that the producer is at least a “HOMO Sapiens.”

From Personal experience, Giovanni Bernabei

Whoa, right?

Giovanni’s farm is wild.  There are plants and weeds growing together randomly everywhere.  He practices a form of permaculture which I have never seen before, not that I have been to many farms or know very much about farming.  But, it’s not what you would expect.  Giovanni lets his plants grow to full maturity, lets the seed and then lets them die or chops them down and tills them right back into the soil.  This explains why there are volunteer plants growing among all his other plants.  It also explains why there are often little random bits of other veggies mixed in with the stuff he delivers to us.

He showed us his cardoons, about 25 plants (4 grueling cases the following week), 6 or 7 types of broccoli, cavolo nero (kale), fennel, garlic fields and other fields that he had just tilled.  He also would stop every so often and pick a small plant from the ground and say, “this plant is very healthy, it has the most iron of any plant found in Italy.”  He repeated that statement maybe 5 times, each time about a different plant.

Giovanni also has chickens and pigs.  He feeds them food that he grows.

Later, after lunch, Giovanni took us up into his apartment near the farm above a pizza restaurant.  He eagerly sat us down in front of his new giant flat screen TV, served us some digestives including homemade grapa and Yaegermeister.  His wife fumbled with the VCR and put on a recording of him on RAI.  It was awesome to see him on such a modern, flashy television show.  He was so lively and entertaining.  He joked with the host and at one point, even told him to shut his mouth so he could finish.

Working in the Garden

The RSFP’s garden at the AAR is a constant source of controversy.  Luckily, as interns, we just work in it and don’t have to deal with any of the ridiculous, annoying politics that stipulate importance of appearance over practicality and purpose.

On Wednesday we typically work in the garden weeding, seeding, planting, harvesting peppers and lettuce, transplanting or picking fruit.  This week was particularly exciting because our beets grew enough so that we could thin and move them so that they can grow even more into big yummy beets in the soil.

Chris thinning, weeding and transplanting beets

tidied up beets

We also were finally able to plant starts for Venezia and Oak Leaf lettuce that we had seeded about a month ago.  Lots of lettuce to come.

our newly planted babies: venezia starts

Aesthetically, they aren’t beautiful but they look very professional and they serve an incredibly important purpose in the health of our lettuce and starters.  I’m talking about he tarps.  And the best part about them, you can’t even see them from outside the garden because the hedge blocks them from view.  So who really cares?  We’ll all just have to learn to love them.  They come with the lettuce.

the highly controversial plastic tarp covers

And, of course, Andrea showed us how to pick Quince like a boss.

Andrea monkey picking quince

Terra Madre 2010 & the Salone Del Gusto

This is gluttony at its finest.

We began our weekend at the US Delegation Meeting in Terra Madre’s Lingotta Fiere Oval. It felt very American. The various speakers, including Alice Waters, Josh Viertel, Raj Patel and Carlo Petrini, among others, were inspiring, concise and funny. Alice told us how proud she was of the progress of Slow Food in the US and how she wants to bring the conference to Washington DC. Josh is a great speaker and told us stories about his first trip to Terra Madre: He arrived in Torino and was forced to wait for hours for a bus from the air port to the convention. While waiting he met some delegates who had traveled for three days just to get to Torino. Josh became impatient after being told for the fifth or sixth time that they would be leaving in 30 minutes. He told this to his new delegate friends who responded, “Enough. You have the watches, we have the time.” This seems to have become a sort of mantra for Josh and he used it to illustrate that although the progress of Slow Food is in fact slow, it is progress.  We cannot constantly look down at our watches and judge our work by the time it took to do it.

Alice Waters speaks

Alice Waters speaks

Carlo Petrini spoke slowly and carefully and told us that Slow Food exists to support Terra Madre, not the other way around.  Interesting that he was at our meeting and not attending the Italian meeting, occurring a few stalls down from us.  We peaked in at the end and saw that it was pretty dead… Strange.

food chaos

food chaos

Vast, overwhelming, crowded, stuffed, tipsy, delicious.  That’s pretty much how I would describe the Salone del Gusto.  I think I tasted around 80 different types of salami and prosciutto and more different kinds of cheese.  40 pecorinos, oxtail stew, honeys, breads, crackers, biscotti, nougat, oysters, mussels, lardo, almonds, pine nuts, lentils, tomato sauces, salsas, beers and wines, all of that in just 30 minutes.  And I spent about five or six hours there!

lardo

lardo!

nougat

nougat! almond and honey.

The best way to describe the Salone del Gusto is as a huge food convention.  20 football fields of small growers, producers, butchers, whatever.  Restaurants, wine bars, breweries, grappa producers.  Anything that can be consumed had at least 10 representative stands offering samples.  The pictures really give the best description of what it was like.

induja

induja

farinata

farinata

Banyuls Vinegar Tasting

Banyuls Vinegar Tasting

Eatily was also an amazing store, full of artisinal gastronomic products and featuring six or seven different food bars, each offering completely different Italian cuisines.  On the weekend by 7PM each bar was packed with people eating and drinking.  Eatily also has a pretty incredible beer and wine selection downstairs in their enoteca and delicious sounding bar food including a hamburger that looked American and juicy.

cured meat @ Eatily

cured meat @ Eatily

espresso @ Eatily

espresso @ Eatily

On Sunday we left the Lingotto area a bit early to explore a tiny little piece of central Torino.  We ventured through Piazza Castello into the Galeria Subalpina, which is amazing, and into one of Torino’s most famous and beautiful cafes, Baratti & Milano.  We each ordered a Bicerin, a thick, creamy hot chocolate and espresso mixture that really just tastes like hot chocolate.  Delicious though.  Also, we saw an awesome book store in the Galeria Subalpina selling all kinds of antique cookbooks.  Definitely a place to visit again.

Bicerin @ Baratti & Milano

Bicerin @ Baratti & Milano

Below are the pictures….  It’s almost like being there.  All of my pictures from Terra Madre are available here via Facebook and here via Flickr.